Nice Low Fire Porcelan Clay

This was my first ever attempt at mixing a clay body. I pretty much guessed at what made a good white clay.( Which proves that ceramics is not an exact science) I figured that I would need to start with the basic clay mix(Tennisee Ball Clay #4 was what was available) and add whitners and refractory materials. I started out with a five gallon pail and a wooden stirrer. I first added about 8 parts of the tennisee ball clay from Laguna. Then added about 3 parts of low Iron Cypreuss Spoudimine. I added a few glaze materials then to whiten it up a bit. 1 part Barium Carbonate, 1 part custlr feldspar, 1 part nephelene syenite, 1/2 part of bentonite for flexibility, and 3 parts grog as I intended to throw with this clay. Then add water to the dry ingreedents until it forms a paste like consistency. then spread your clay out flat on a table and allow it to dry overnight uncovered and set in sun until firm the next day and throw. This clay is great for throwing large, thin pieces which need good stability. However, this clay does bear two major drawbacks; one is that because of the barium it is toxic until in a vitreous state or glazed and leach tested state. Also, it will lose its whitness at high fire cone 6. It should be bisqued around cone 03/02 because at normal bisque temperatures it will partialy vitrify, reduing its capacity to accept underglaze. I also would not think it is sutible for raku firng because of its different properties. However, try and tell me the results. This would be a great body for salt glazing because of the whitning chemicals and their reaction to salt enviroments, so please try this and tell me the result.
Happy Glazing!