Burmise Glass Glaze( Warning Contains Uranium)

This was an idea based on the formula for Burmese glass and is designed for fire at cone 7-9. If you can get the ingredients, give it a shot, I think you will be surprised.

50% Silica
25% Potash Feldspar
12% Florospar
8% Custlr Feldspar
5% Sodium Bicarbonate
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
10% Lead Oxide
5% Uranium Oxide
1.5% Colloidal Gold
7% Potassium Nitrate
5% Praseodmyium Oxide

Should produce a creamy yellow to yellow-green glaze and a nice healthy glow under a uv light. The mixing, use, sale, and exposure of this glaze is a severe health risk. I am not resposible for what you do with this formula, but if you have the materials and the love for severe health problems then try this glaze. I AM NOT RESPONSOBLE FOR ANY HEALTH PROBLEMS WHICH MAY DEVELOP AS A RESULT OF USING THIS GLAZE FORMULA; IT IS INTENDED TO BE AN IDEA FOR THOUGHT ONLY AND NOT FOR USE OR SALE. I CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH THE RISKS INVOLVED WITH THIS GLAZE. PLEASE, UNLESS YOU ASSUME ALL RISK FOR THIS AND ACCEPT THAT WHAT YOU DO IS YOUR OWN RESPONSOBILITY AND I AM NOT LEGALY LIABLE FOR ANY RESULTING HEALTH PROBLEMS.

Low Fire Brilliant Red

This is just an idea for a Brilliant Red Glaze at low fire. Yet, to accomplish this I feel that the use of somewhat, controversial, colorants is the only way to get the desired result.

10% Ball Clay
10% Silica
15% Cuslr Feldspar
5%Gerstly Borate
15% Frit(I use Hommel Frit 14, but experiment try other Frits)
5% Lithium Carbonate
20% Baria
20% Strontium Carbonate
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
4% Selenium Oxide
3% Cadmium Oxide
3% Lead Oxide

Pit Salt Glaze Testing

As part of my high school, I may have the opportunity to try salt glazing.Therefore, I have done some thinking about how to develop colors and efffects in salt glazes. So, anyone who is currently salt glazing , please give me some input on my ideas.

First, I thought of mixing lead oxide powder with the salt in my pit . Also possibly feeding a gas like mercury hydride into the pit, or covering the pots in mercury prior to firing. Also putting a wash of selenium and cadmium over the pot. Possibly by trying a chemical raku by taking out the red hotsalt glazed piece and dipping it in a solution of copper, sulfuric acid, and water.

Though these ideas are very hazardous in nature, they are only ideas and are out for comment only and not as ideas to try, therefore I take no responsobility for any injury or death as a result of someone actualy trying them. As this behavior poses severe health risks.
Thanks and Happy Glazing!

Nice Low Fire Porcelan Clay

This was my first ever attempt at mixing a clay body. I pretty much guessed at what made a good white clay.( Which proves that ceramics is not an exact science) I figured that I would need to start with the basic clay mix(Tennisee Ball Clay #4 was what was available) and add whitners and refractory materials. I started out with a five gallon pail and a wooden stirrer. I first added about 8 parts of the tennisee ball clay from Laguna. Then added about 3 parts of low Iron Cypreuss Spoudimine. I added a few glaze materials then to whiten it up a bit. 1 part Barium Carbonate, 1 part custlr feldspar, 1 part nephelene syenite, 1/2 part of bentonite for flexibility, and 3 parts grog as I intended to throw with this clay. Then add water to the dry ingreedents until it forms a paste like consistency. then spread your clay out flat on a table and allow it to dry overnight uncovered and set in sun until firm the next day and throw. This clay is great for throwing large, thin pieces which need good stability. However, this clay does bear two major drawbacks; one is that because of the barium it is toxic until in a vitreous state or glazed and leach tested state. Also, it will lose its whitness at high fire cone 6. It should be bisqued around cone 03/02 because at normal bisque temperatures it will partialy vitrify, reduing its capacity to accept underglaze. I also would not think it is sutible for raku firng because of its different properties. However, try and tell me the results. This would be a great body for salt glazing because of the whitning chemicals and their reaction to salt enviroments, so please try this and tell me the result.
Happy Glazing!

Cone 6 Flat Green-Blue High Fire

I don't quite remember what this one does. But, give it a try and tell me what happens.

20% Ball Clay
10% Nephelene Syenite
20% Silica
30% Barium Carbonate
20% Custlr Feldspar
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
2% Yellow Ochre
1% Tin Oxide(or 2.5% Zircopax)
2% Lithium Carbonate
2% Copper Carbonate
.5% Cobalt Carbonate
3% Rutile( Low Iron)

High Fire Flat Blue

This glaze creates a thin, dry matted blue glaze at cone 6 in an electric kiln. This glaze does not run mutch, again every kiln is different so be cautious in using any unpredictable formula.

H. F. Blue
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

10% Silica
10% Ball Clay
20% Barium Carbonate
15% Calcium Carbonate
15% Talc
10% Lithium Carbonate
10% Gerstly Borate
10% Strontium Carbonate
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
4% Copper Carbonate
3% Alumina Hydrate
.5% Cobalt Carbonate
2.5% Tin Oxide

Stony Glaze

The first glaze i'm posting is a matted marbled stone look at a high firing in an electrical kiln at cone 6.

Base Glaze
~~~~~~~~

Ball Clay ~~~~~ 20%
Nephelene Syenite ~~~~~ 10%
Silica ~~~~~ 20%
Barium Carbonate ~~~~~ 30%
Custer Feldspar

Colorants and Fluxes
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Yellow Ochre ~~~~~ 2%
Tin Oxide (or Zircopax, but double up) ~~~~~ 1%
Lithium Carbonate ~~~~~ 2%

Have fun with this glaze, it makes a great compliment to blues and greens. However, note that it may run depending on your kiln. So it's a good idea to keep it far from the bottom.

This blog is protected by the intellectual properties act and cannot be copied or used except when it is used for personal use. therefore it is important that you do not sell or replicate any form of this glaze recipe without agreed compensation to the artist, Matthew Murphy. Thanks.